The Place Yilan - A Hotel next to the NCFTA, Luodong

A hotel next to the National Center for Traditional Arts - Luodong

This hotel complex is next to the National Center for Traditional Arts (NCFTA). I would characterize this hotel as one for families that want to visit the NCFTA. While I did not stay there, the staff showed me a couple rooms. There rooms I saw had two bedrooms and a common area. Sometimes the second room will have a bunk bed. The décor looks like a cross between a college dorm (but a lot cleaner!) and modern Scandinavian. It’s a large complex that may involve some walking from the parking lot to the building. I did see a golf cart shuttle that looks available to help.  

It was explained to me that the buildings are owned by the government and every 12 years a hotel company receives a contract to remodel and operate them as a hotel. The Hotel Royal Group now has the contract.

A Cultural Theme Park in Luodong, Taiwan

What is the National Center for Traditional Arts?

On the banks of the Dongshan River in Luodong, Taiwan is a tourist attraction called the National Center for Traditional Arts (NCFTA). Before I went, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect. The English brochure says you will, “Experience our ancestors’ traditional lifestyle and culture in the ancient setting of a commoner’s everyday life.” Also, “Travel through time and space to experience traditional Taiwanese customs and immerse in the joyous festive atmosphere.” Think of it as a “cultural theme park.” Not a theme park like Disney with rides but one that showcases the early culture on Taiwan.

The park mainly consists of three “boulevards” and an Exhibition Hall. 

Luban Boulevard has buildings highlighting some handicrafts. I was there on a weekday and no one was demonstrating handicrafts, but when days are busier it looks like people can try their hands at making crafts. Architecturally, walking down this area was very pleasant.

Shop on Luban Boulevard

Wenchang Boulevard is a re-creation of an old street that could have been in any early Taiwan trading town. Again, a lot of effort has been done to make it look authentic. However, it is new construction, so it does not truly reflect a feeling of “old Taiwan.” Many stores were selling things, some looked local and some not. I felt this area could be improved by selling handicrafts or agricultural products produced in Taiwan.

Wenchang Boulevard

Waterfront Boulevard has a view of the water with slow boat rides being offered. When I was there a stage was being erected for a performance. I wished there were more benches (shaded) where one could rest and just watch the boats.

Waterfront Boulevard

The Exhibition Hall was showcasing some very fine historical artifacts that appeared to be on loan from the National Palace Museum. Thankfully, the labels were also in English.

Cool carved bench

Probably the highlight of the visit was the live performances. I just happened to come across them. If the time and locations where noted somewhere, I seemed to have missed it.  There was one performance in front of the Wenchang Temple and another a short time later between the Exhibition Hall and Chiang Wei-shui Theater. The performances featured acrobatics and colorful costumes. The narration was only in Chinese.

Performance in front of Wenchang Temple

This is a family-friendly attraction where one can spend a few hours, maybe longer depending on the live performances. I visited during the low season so admission was only NT150 (US$5) so very reasonable.

Can't leave without my bubble tea

Guanghsiao Shrine

Cute bug

Next to the attraction is a hotel which I will review in my next post.

Getting there: From Luodong station by taxi about NT$200. Taiwan Tourist Shuttle behind the rear station exit (First location in front of the bus terminal by the station). Uses the Easy Card.

Best way to Luodong/Yilan from Taipei - Bus!

I’m on a two-week trip around the island of Taiwan using public transportation. My goal is to show non-Chinese speaking visitors to Taiwan how easy it is to travel in Taiwan

Highway 5 fastest route to Yilan/Luodong

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Day 1 Taipei to Luodong

Luodong was my first stop on my trip around Taiwan. I wanted to visit the National Center for Traditional Arts. A cultural theme park with shops and performances.  Getting to Luodong was very easy. I decided to go by bus since I heard taking Highway-5 is quicker than taking a train which first must go to Keelung then down the coast to Yilan/Luodong. I went to the Taipei City hall bus station which was very very clean and looked new. 

Huge croissants - so tempting

The huge croissants on the way to the information desk looked very tempting. At the information desk, I told the helpful person at the counter where I wanted to go and she directed me to a colleague who printed off a bus ticket. The ticket was NT$105 about US$3.50. Another advantage of travelling in Taiwan by public transportation is that it’s cheap! Also, before the bus door there was an Easy Card reader, so that is also an option. 

Information and ticket counter

Buses leave for Luodong every 10 minutes so I had a short wait at platform 13 for bus 1570.  Buses leave for Yilan at the same frequency. I was very impressed by how orderly and clean the station was. When the bus arrived, we were directed to the bus. 

US$3.50 Taipei to Luodong. Amazing!

Signs to platforms well marked in English

13 Platform to Luodong

Inside platform area

Easy Card reader

Very comfortable bus

The bus looked new and was very comfortable.

TV!

Taipei 101 - not a bad shot from a moving bus!

AC vent and light controls

Bus stop in front of Luodong station

Luodong bus terminal

There were few people on the bus during this weekday and after some traffic getting out of Taipei, Highway-5 it was smooth sailing!  It took about an hour to arrive at the Luodong bus station which was in front of the rear entrance to the train station. 

I was pleasantly surprised by how nice this experience was, but then again, I shouldn’t be because this is Taiwan where hospitality and customer service comes first.

The Bizarre and Unexpected on Kinmen Island, Taiwan

Chen Qing Ji Yang Lou Mansion

 

As I travel in Taiwan, I always come across what I call the bizarre and unexpected. Bizarre being defined as, “very strange or unusual, especially as to cause interest or amusement.” The Chen Qing Ji Yang Lou mansion on Kinmen Island, Taiwan falls into this definition.

Expression over entrance "Union is Strength"

This mansion obviously belonged to a wealthy family many years ago, but now it has fallen on hard times. It is this rundown condition that makes it so unique and “bizarre.” It even has a tree growing out of the second story!

Should it be restored? Restoring it would certainly change how it looks, but it would lose its uniqueness that photographers seek and tourists admire. No, keep it the way it is. 

Among all the debris, a portrait of Chiang Kai-shek 

Getting there: Jinsha Township, Kinmen Island, Taiwan. GPS coordinates 118.44292, 24.485801

Going Back in Time Visiting Chiang Kai-shek's Taipei Area Homes

Shilin Residence

Nestled in the former Shilin Horticultural Experimental Station established during Japanese colonial rule is the Shilin residence of Chiang Kai-shek. The home is quite large and resembles 1959 style western architecture. While no photographs are allowed inside, on a self-guided tour you will see the rooms with furniture where Chiang Kai-shek and wife Soong Mei-ling spent their time. The home and furnishings are modest by today’s standards but give you an insight how the new Taiwan first family lived. There is a free audio guide available with just a deposit.

Also on the grounds is the Methodist church the Chiangs attended and still in use today and large gardens that includes many roses. The Cadillac limousine used by Madame Chiang is at the entrance eerily out of place. It would be nice to see Taiwan’s historically significant vehicles be preserved and placed in a museum.

Getting there: Take MRT red line to Shilin station then a short walk through the gardens to the residence.

Website link: Shilin_residence

Grass Mountain Chateau on Yangmingshan

This was the first residence of Chiang Kai-Shek and Madam Chiang after coming to Taiwan from being driven from the mainland by the Communists. Taiwan Sugar Corporation originally constructed it to host Japanese dignitaries. It was used by the Chiangs until the Shilin residence was completed.

It is of Japanese architecture consisting of 6 rooms, but in 2007 the Chateau was destroyed by fire so what you see now is a very good recreation. Now it is a multifunctional building consisting of a restaurant, an area for art exhibition, and a display of relics of the Chiangs.

Even though it is a recreation it is still worth a visit to see the view the Chiangs experienced when they first moved here and then seeing the bomb shelter entrance signifying the reality of them being at war with the Communists.

Getting there: Only way to get there is by private car, scooter, or bus.

Website link: Grass_Mountain_Chateau

Zhongxing Guesthouse on Yangmingshan
 

The Zhongxing Guesthouse also known as the Yangmingshuwu was built in the late 60s to be a guest house of visiting dignitaries and a summer residence for the Chiangs. It commands magnificent views of Taipei below and is surrounded by gardens and forests and is now part of the Yangmingshan National Park. Only guided tours are allowed in the house. The cost for adults is NT$80. Tours are only in Chinese and only leave at 10:00, 11:00, 14:30, and 15:30. Reservations are suggested, call or email one-week ahead.

There is a strong sense of authenticity in this house from the carpet, furniture, and blue bath fixtures. While it is a large house you get a sense of frugality of the occupants. This is one of the Taipei area Chiang Kai-Shek houses that should not be missed.

Getting there: Private car, scooter, or bus.

Website link: Yangmingshuwu

Homestay Experience in LalaShan Taiwan

Experienced travelers know that travelling is more than just viewing famous sites and taking pictures of them. It is also about experiencing the local culture. It is to get close and personal, to understand and learn, and to enjoy the company (and food) of locals. One way to do this in Taiwan is to stay at a homestay where essentially you are a guest in a local family’s home.  They will most likely have many rooms set up like a Bed and Breakfast. I did this in the Lalashan area.

My host family

My recent travels to Taiwan had been to the big cities, but a huge area of Taiwan is mountainous.  However, transportation to these areas for a solo traveler tend to be difficult. Using Google Maps I started clicking on homestays in the Lalashan region and seeing if they had a website with English or a Facebook page where I could message them. Fairyland had a Facebook page and I messaged them.  Very quickly I got a response back in perfect English, which I later found out was the daughter of the owners.  I explained I would like to visit as a solo traveler but needed help to get to their homestay. She said she would work on it. A few days later she said another small group was coming and that we all could ride with her father from the Taoyuan train station up to Fairyland Lalashan. Not only that, but we could stop at a few cultural sites on the way up. 

The road to Lalashan is one lane wide in many areas with large trucks coming down.  I was glad I did not attempt to drive it. It was also under repair, possibly from washouts from recent typhoons. The steepness of the mountains was amazing and it’s amazing a road got built at all. We finally reached Fairyland Homestay. It appears to be recently built and the rooms are very large. Most with balconies with views overlooking the mountains to the west. We got treated to a beautiful sunset. Available downstairs were snacks and fruit. The breakfast was traditional Taiwanese and was a special treat to experience home prepared local food.

The next day we got a ride to the Lalashan Forest Reserve by the host father to see the huge ancient cypress trees and have a nice hike in the forest.  They were breathtaking.

So what about my hosts? They were amazing. While they did not speak much English, the other travelers could translate for me.  And the host mother even called her daughter to speak to me to make sure everything was okay. Is it true what you have heard about Taiwanese hospitality?  I will say yes! What I felt from this host family was that they were not doing things out of a duty but that they had a genuine sense of caring and they wanted me to enjoy my experience in Taiwan.