If you only go to Shifen for lanterns, you are missing a lot

I was intrigued by the Pingxi Rail Line during my research of day trips from Taipei. It has a historical aspect and it travels through many picturesque towns. The Pingxi Rail Line was a railway built mainly to haul coal from the area of Jingtong down to the coast by Keelung. Instead of abandoning the line when the coal mines closed, the Taiwan government keep it going and now it has turned into a fun tourist experience.

Pingxi Line map

Most tourists start at the Ruifang train station and take the Pingxi Rail Line west toward Pingxi or only to Shifen and do the lantern thing. The Pingxi Line ends at the town of Jingtong.  I took the Taiwan Tourism Bureau suggestion and started in Taipei on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus to catch the train at Jingtong. From my Taipei hotel, I hopped on the brown MRT going to the Taipei zoo and got off at the Muzha Station.  The  Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus stops near the Muzha MRT station.

Muzha MRT station is the next to the last stop

Follow the arrow to the bus stop from Muzha MRT station

Go under this bridge and cross the road at the stoplight

  

How to find the bus: As you come down the escalator at the station exit, turn left. You will see a diagonal street that goes under a bridge.  Take it to the stoplight.  CROSS THE STREET and turn right a little to get to the stop for bus 795 going to Pengxi. For the bus fare, use your Easy Card.

Bus #795 

Bus stop

If you see this temple from your bus stop, you are at the correct stop

For some reason the scheduled times the bus leaves from the station are not at constant intervals. I missed the 7:15 am bus and had to wait an hour for the 8:20 bus and since this was rush hour of people going to work plus tourists it was standing room only for about an hour on the bus until Jingtong. My suggestion is if you want to leave in the morning, get one of the earlier buses, e.g. 6:20, 6:50, or 7:15.

I choose to get off at Jingtong to see this former coal-mining town and catch the Pingxi Rail Line train here. Jingtong is the terminus stop of the Pingxi Line. There are at least three ways to purchase tickets for the train once you arrive at Jingtong. You can use the Easy Card as you enter and exit at each stop, buy a single-use ticket to the station you wish to go to, or buy an all-day hop-on-hop-off pass for NT$80. Which is what I did. The all-day pass will give you the flexibility to stop and get off at the other interesting towns on the line.

Scanner for Easy Card. Make sure you scan again when you exit!

Jingtong has a small and quaint old street and when I was there in the early morning there were only a few tourists. Up the hill behind the station is the Coal Mining Memorial Park with an old sealed off mine entrance. There are many cool derelict buildings that were used during the coal mining days that make for good selfie backgrounds.

Jingtong Old Street. No tourists!

The next stop on the line is the town of Pingxi. Pingxi also has an old street downhill from the train station. There are your usual snack food and tourist souvenirs. Walk up to the Guanyin Rock Temple and see the bomb shelter and Eight Spirits cave. Pretty thrilling to have bats flying around you in the cave!

Bomb shelter caves

Bomb shelter

Entrance to 'Eight Spirits Cave'

What is flying around me? Bats!

You can loft a lantern at Pingxi or Shifen

The next two stations Linjiao and Wangu people tend to bypass because they want to get off at Shifen. There is, however, a newer bike/walking path along the Keelung River between Pingxi and Linjiao.

Shifen is the tourist mecca because everyone wants to send up good luck sky lanterns. So after the train leaves, people purchase the lanterns, write messages on them, have their picture taken, let the lantern go, and then get back on the next train. 

Where the action is

What is your wish?

Different colors for different wishes

There are many snacks that can be had along the tracks. If you walk up the Shifen Old Street as it curves to the right you will come to a local minced pork lunch place. Cheap, good and a great local experience.

Keep walking up Shifen Old Street and you come to a local eatery

Local minced pork dish

Another stop on the Pingxi Line is the Houtong Cat Village. Probably one of the cleverest marketing gimmicks in Taiwan.  Who doesn’t wasn’t to see a cute cat? The town is also home to the Coal Mine Ecological Park where you can learn about this former Taiwan industry.

There are also many hikes from these towns (most vertical), but some to waterfalls.  Pickup Richard Saunders’ book Taiwan 101 when you are in Taipei to learn more about the trails. I know Eslite in Taipei carries it.

 

If you came by train from Taipei, you transfer to Pingxi Line here

  

According to the schedule, trains leave about every hour

When my Pengxi line train stopped at the Ruifang station, I transferred to a train back to the Songshan station in Taipei. This was an easy day trip from Taipei. Go early if you want to avoid the large crowds. All Aboard Taiwan!

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Taitung to Tainan - Through the Mountains

I am now on my fifth day around Taiwan.  I am now leaving Taitung and going to Tainan.  I have decided to skip Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s largest city in the south since it is very spread-out and will take some time exploring. Tainan, however, I have heard many good things about and I am looking forward to at least exploring the tip of the iceberg.

South-Link line from Taitung

If you look at a map of Taiwan, you will see that Tainan is almost directly across from Taitung.  Taitung is on the east coast and Tainan is on the west coast in southern Taiwan. On the map you will also see that there is a mountain range between the two cities. The best transportation route to the west coast from the east is on the Taiwan Rail Administration South-Link line. I had purchased the ticket earlier to make sure I had a seat on the train.  The 2^nd class section of the train was more than comfortable. Because of those mountains, the train went through many tunnels.  I didn’t count them all, but it was a lot.

That's my hotel! How to get there?

Tunnel under the tracks

We made a stop in Kaohsiung and then continued to Tainan. Arriving at Tainan, I got out of the train station and saw my hotel (Shangri-la Plaza Hotel) on the other side of the tracks. Knowing there must be an easy way to get across, I finally found the tunnel in front of the station that goes under the tracks to the other side. Shangri-la Plaza hotel was so very convenient being so close to the train station. I did arrive a little early for check-in, so I went to the Plaza mall food court for some lunch. After a leisure lunch, I went back to reception and my room was ready with the luggage brought up. I had a large room with the typical amenities, but the carpet has seen better days. I was so grateful for a cool space though.  The heat in Tainan was stifling.

Food court lunch

Bus 77 will take you to Anping District

I only had part of a day in Tainan, so I wanted to hit the main attraction which to me was Anping District and what’s left of the Dutch fort Zeelandia. Getting there was easy from the Shangri-la Plaza hotel. Bus 77 stops in front of the hotel and the stop to get off was the Indigenous Culture Center. With a short walk across the canal, I was at the Anping Old Street. Cool food and snacks abound and they cater to all the tourists’ needs. After turning right at the Matsu Temple, I was at the old fort. Not much is left now so it is hard to imagine what it looked like when Koxinga attacked it and drove out the Dutch. The trees in this place are amazing and I got to see the sunset.

Matsu Temple

Fort Zeelandia

Fort Zeelandia

Crazy tree

Sunset from Fort Zeelandia

Time for some snacks!

Nice clean air-conditioned bus #77

Back to the Shangri-la Plaza Hotel

I took the same bus back to the Shangri-la Plaza hotel. From my quick tour through Tainan City, I can see it is a fun place with food and many historical places. Definitely a place to come back to. Now I just need a find a cool month to visit.

When in Taiwan, Stay Like a King without Paying a King’s Ransom

Grand Hotel Taipei

Hotel stays in Taiwan represent an excellent value, especially compared to hotels in the USA. I would highly recommend all these hotels I stayed at during my 2 weeks around Taiwan.  I also stayed at three exceptional homestays which is a wonderful way to get closer to the locals.

My hotel selection goals were that the hotel should be new or newly remodeled. If not new, then it should have a reputation for being very clean. It needs to be located near the train station where I was arriving since I was going around Taiwan on public transportation. And lastly, it should have a unique aspect whether it’s location or being a boutique hotel. My price target was US$150 with taxes.

An added benefit of hotels in Taiwan is the breakfast, which usually is included or can be added at the time of booking for very little additional cost. We are not talking the lame Hampton Inn type of breakfast, but wonderful Chinese and Japanese offerings along with items that will please the western palate; made to order eggs, fresh fruit, pastries, and fresh coffee from fancy latte cappuccino machines. In other words, a cornucopia of good things to eat and drink.

Breakfast offerings at 1969 Blue Sky Hotel, Taichung

How do you want that coffee?

I found the best prices and ease of booking on the agoda.com booking web site. The search function on the website is easy to use and all the room size options are presented with all the costs clearly spelled out. The pay-in-advance option was not that much cheaper than the free cancelation options, so I only chose the free cancelation option in case my plans changed. The cancelation policy depended on the hotel property. Most were free cancelation one day in advance, but some required any cancelation to be one week before the stay so as not to get charged. Also, Agoda did not charge my card until the end of the free cancelation period. In a couple cases, I paid the hotel directly.  This is all spelled out in the booking voucher. To finish my decision process, I looked at the user reviews on Google Maps, Trip Advisor, and Agoda.

The Taiwan hotels I stayed at had these welcomed perks: I always had at least two FREE bottles of water every day. WIFI is FREE and always a good speed. Every room had a mini-fridge (some were stocked with FREE items). The staff are so pleasant and helpful. No crazy taxes and fees that you see added to US hotel stays. Oh, did I mention the great breakfasts!

A FREE mini-bar at Taipei Fullerton - North

Below are listed, from highest price to lowest, those hotels I stayed at. All included breakfast unless noted.

Above US$300

Silks Place in Taroko Gorge. Yeah, I splurged on this one, but how could I pass-up staying at a great location within Taroko Gorge National Park. Wonderful hotel with rooftop pool and many activities.

Rooftop pool at Silks Place. Bring a swim cap. Even required for men.

Some of the breakfast pastry offerings at Silks Place

US$200-250

Gaya Hotel in Taitung. This is a new hotel in the center of Taitung. Boutique type with a rooftop pool. Of all the hotels I stayed at, the breakfast at this one could have used some improvement. Since train station if far from the hotel, they have a free shuttle.

Order in the Gaya Hotel, Taitung

The Grand Hotel in Taipei.  An icon in Taipei. Not very convenient to get to (better now with MRT nearby), but if you want to start your trip being immersed in Chinese culture, stay here. The hotel has two breakfast locations, a large one on the main floor and the Muslim one on the 10^th floor. If you don’t need bacon for your breakfast, go to the 10^th floor and you will be rewarded with a view. The Grand Hotel also has an annex called the Chin-Lin annex.  If you want a room in the main building don’t choose the annex.

Interior of the Grand Hotel, Taipei

US$150-200

Union House in Lugang. When I stayed in October 2017 this hotel had just opened. Excellent luxury facilities and close to the things you want to see in old Lugang. I wish the outside architecture could have blended in better with the old town buildings. No train station in Lugang (which is why it stayed old and not developed) so I took the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus from Taichung HSR station.

Union House, modern luxury in Old Lugang

Shangri-La Far Eastern Plaza Hotel in Tainan. A luxury hotel by the train station with a rooftop pool for just over US$150 all-inclusive. Wow! The room I was in was a little dated, but the huge breakfast spread made up for it. Go to breakfast when they open to get a table by the food. A bus stop in front of the hotel takes you to Anping area.

The food area is so huge that you need a map!

Taro stew with coconut cream, divine!

An "egg" roll actually rolled with egg!

Colorful salad area.

This will not happen when you are done with breakfast at the Shangri-la Far Eastern Plaza Hotel!

Taipei Fullerton Hotel – Maison North in Taipei. There are a couple Fullerton hotels in Taipei. This one is near Songshan airport with the MRT nearby. There are lots of good hotels in Taipei. It all depends on

which area you want to stay. I have to say this hotel had the coolest toilet (how do I flush this thing?).

Large soaking tub at Taipei Fullerton - North

US$100-150

Inhouse Boutique in Taipei (Ximending). If you want a great hotel in the heart of the exciting Ximending district, this is it. A little funky but not over the top. Western type food in the main floor restaurant.

In the heart of exciting Ximending!

Brother Hotel in Taipei. I love the Brother Hotel because of its location. Centrally located next to the Nanjing-Fuxing MRT station with two lines that can go in all four directions in Taipei City. The hotel is very clean and offers a good value.

All hotels have a hot pot, but some are starting to have Nespresso machines.

Cool desk lamp, Brother Hotel, Taipei

US$75-100

Maison De Chine Hotel in Chiayi City. Need a nice place to stay before taking the Alishan Railway in the morning? This fits the bill nicely. They have a free shuttle that will pick you up and drop you off at the train station.

Nondescript on the outside, but very nice in the small city of Chiayi.

Rido Hotel in Taipei (Daan District). This hotel caught my eye because you can get rooms overlooking Daan Park and the décor looks old China. With the mirrored ceiling and a condom on the bedstand, I wondered what kind of hotel this was. However, it was clean and comfortable. I did not try breakfast since I had to catch an early flight.

Dark elegant in the Rido Hotel, Taipei

1969 Blue Sky Hotel in Taichung. This probably represents the best value among all my hotel stays this trip. It is a wonderfully designed new boutique hotel a short walk from the train station with so many cool design features. Check out that front door. For US$80 including everything, I think I got a steal.  This hotel gives me a reason to come to Taichung again.

An old power station? No, the cyber cool 1969 Blue Sky Hotel in Taichung.

Key sensor

Let's repurpose an old boiler.

Be assured I have not received any compensation from recommending these hotels.

I’ll report on the three wonderful homestays I stayed at in another post.

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My Taitung Visit was too Short

Amazing Taitung

I am now on my fourth day traveling around Taiwan using public transportation as a solo traveler who cannot speak Chinese. So far it has been wonderful with no major problems. Trains are leaving and arriving on time and the station platforms are well marked. I had a problem in Luodong explaining directions to a taxi, but the driver asked another person and I got to my homestay with no problem.

National Museum of Prehistory

Yesterday I was with friends and we went to the Luye Highlands and biked around the rice fields in the most picturesque around Chishang. As they were heading back to the Taitung airport they dropped me at the National Museum of Prehistory In Taitung. This is a very large museum with the purpose of exploring the natural history of Taiwan, the pre-history of Taiwan, and the indigenous people of Taiwan. The museum came about when excavation was being done for a new railway station nearby and in the process, it was discovered that the area was a prehistoric burial site. A museum was proposed near the site to properly show the archeological finds and for education. After eleven years of planning, the museum officially opened in 2002. It is a large multi-floor museum with life-size humans and animals in displays showing how they might have used the articles found in the archeological excavations in the area. It was a great way to spend a rainy afternoon with the only negative being transportation if you don’t have a car, as it is a way from the city center. Luckily, the information desk was very helpful and called a taxi for me so I could get back to my hotel in the city center.

Rice souvenir The Gaya Hotel

 

My hotel was the new Gaya Hotel. I would call it a large boutique hotel if I can use those two adjectives together. The staff was very polite and helpful. The room I had was somewhat small but very well appointed.  It even had Taitung rice as a souvenir in a decorative package. The rooftop infinity pool had amazing views and included a rooftop lounge, which was closed possibly due to the rain. The next morning’s breakfast buffet would be considered average. Many hotels I have stayed at in Taiwan seem to take pride in their breakfast offerings. This is one area where the Gaya Hotel can improve.

Infinity pool with a view

The hotel was in an excellent location downtown near restaurants and bars. It is also next to the Railway Art Village which seems to have activities going on frequently. If you like nature walking or biking, Taitung has the parks for you.  Next to the Gaya Hotel is the Liyushan Park with many nice trails, a temple, and a pagoda.

Even the rain didn't stop vendors at the Railway Art Village

Good hiking on the Liyushan trail behind the Gaua Hotel

Coming out from the Railway Art Village on the old railway trackbed is a nice wide wooden trail that would be great for biking or even walking. I didn’t have a chance to get on it this trip, but next time I’m in Taitung I’ll check it out. Another park for biking is Taitung Forest Park. You don’t need to bring your own bike since bike rentals are available in the park.

Entrance to Liyushan trail

Boardwalk over the old railway bed

My visit to Taitung has been too short. I must come back soon, but for now, on to the southwest coast of Taiwan.